Nou Pap Janm Bliye- 1/12/10

In remembrance of all of those who lost their lives in the earthquake in Haiti on January 12 of 2010, I wanted to share this poem I wrote a week after the earthquake. May their souls rest in peace. May their loved ones find peace. Gone but not forgotten. Forever in our hearts.

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Disclaimer: This image is not my property.

Some of us call on the Pope

While others sniff and rely on dope

But Haitians can only think of HOPE

For as a nation it is the only way we can cope

There is no time to sit around and mope

We have to keep climbing to the top of the rattling rope

And together we can reach a positive slope

So we can see Haiti rise like a star out of this telescope


A nation dying to figure out the cause,

Of why misery never puts Haiti on pause

Some say the devil grasped us with his claws

While he laughs and use our souls to gnaw

But I have one question: Can we look past Haiti’s flaws?

And I’m not asking this for a simple cause

I just know that this time around we can create better laws

Then we can stand up and give Haiti a round of applause


This once beautiful nation will always be my cocaine

I remember chewing on my sweet sugar cane

With an immense feeling of overflowing love for this domain

Now all I can think of is ‘for those victims I gotta stay sane’

Because man, I got Haiti on the brain

Man, Haiti won’t get off my brain

And this pain, I can never get away from this pain

From watching my people suffer miserable deaths in vain

But I know La Perle des Antilles is our most precious gain

So best believe that once more, once more like 1804 we will break any chain

For this Haitian nation , my Ayiti cherie that will always be my cocaine

Poem by: Andye

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Haiti: The Nostalgia

It’s been 2 months since I left Haiti, and truth is, it’s been tough being away from the sun, the clear water beaches, the coconut trees, organic food, fresh seafood that were caught 15 minutes before they ended up on the stove, the mountains, the feeling of patriotism within a great nation, wednesdays at Best Western and the list goes on…It’s been tough being away from it all. And due to this great deal of nostalgia for the country for which I yearn, I created this video to give you a sense of what you’ve been missing, but mostly to remind me of how lucky I am to have experienced this beautiful nation with beautiful people. Enjoy!

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Haiti: Adventures in the Southern Department

Dear readers, 

Are you at that point where you’re saying to yourself “That’s it! If she doesn’t stop posting those pictures of Haiti, I will get a ticket soon and head to Haiti!”?  Are you at that point where you feel nostalgic for everything “Haitian”? Are you at that point where your perception of Haiti has changed from what you usually see in the media? Are you at that point where you’re having positive conversations about Haiti? Or are you not there..yet? 

If you’re not at those points, that’s okay. But I will continue to show you the gorgeous sides of my birth country and everything you barely see. I will continue being that “Haiti” girl, to whom you can come and ask all your “Haiti” questions. I will continue flooding your Facebook newsfeeds, your twitter timelines and your WordPress newsfeeds with the sights I encounter in Haiti. And why do I do this, you may ask? Well, it’s simple: Haiti is beautiful and I want you to know, see and one day experience it on your own. I refuse to be like the many NGO workers, expats or workers of other international organizations who come to Haiti, live in the biggest/nicest houses with every amenities you can think of, drive the nicest most expensive cars and yet their online posts are only about the “poverty” in Haiti and their “projects”. I refuse to be a part of this hypocritical cycle that contributes to the detriment of Haiti’s image. With this said, I present to you images, taken by me, during my weekend trip to the south of Haiti. I visited Les Cayes, Port-Salut, 500 Marches (The 500 steps of pilgrimage), Grotte Marie-Jeanne (The Cave) in Port-a-Piment, Saut-Mathurine in Camp-Perrin and the Botanical Garden of Les Cayes.. 

The Cathedral in Les Cayes.

The Cathedral in Les Cayes.

Untouched beach across from Ile-a-Vache

Untouched beach across from Ile-a-Vache

The side of the road. Island life.

The side of the road. Island life.

The view while climbing the mountain to get to the cave aka Grotte Marie-Jeanne

The view while climbing the mountain to get to the cave aka Grotte Marie-Jeanne

The cave- Grotte Marie-Jeanne.

The cave- Grotte Marie-Jeanne.

The cave-Grotte Marie-Jeanne

The cave- Grotte Marie-Jeanne.

Selfie with the caved elephants discovered in the cave. It is believed that this elephant may have been caved by the Marron slaves or the Native Indians who resided on the island before Columbus' arrival.

Selfie with the caved elephants discovered in the cave. It is believed that this elephant may have been caved by the Marroon slaves or the Native Indians who resided on the island before Columbus’ arrival.

500 Marches. Pilgrimage consisting of clinbing 500 steps to the top of the mountain. It is indeed the longest pilgrimage walk in the world.

500 Marches. Pilgrimage consisting of clinbing 500 steps to the top of the mountain. It is indeed the longest pilgrimage walk in the world.

Hand-made bags seen on the beach at Port-Salut. Best believe I got myself one!

Hand-made bags seen on the beach at Port-Salut. Best believe I got myself one!

Typical hand-made Haitian hats seen at Port-Salut's beach.

Typical hand-made Haitian hats seen at Port-Salut’s beach.

Sunset from Port-Salut.

Sunset from Port-Salut.

Road leading to the house where Haitian leaders met to discuss the war to Haitian Independence.

Road leading to the house where Haitian leaders met to discuss the war to Haitian Independence.

The house where Haitian leaders meet to discuss the war to Haitian Independence in the late 1800's, early 1900's.

The house where Haitian leaders meet to discuss the war to Haitian Independence in the late 1800’s, early 1900’s.

The ruins of the house where Haitian leaders meet to discuss the war to Haitian Independence in the late 1800's, early 1900's.

The ruins of the house where Haitian leaders meet to discuss the war to Haitian Independence in the late 1800’s, early 1900’s.

View from the ruins of the house where Haitian leaders meet to discuss the war to Haitian Independence in the late 1800's, early 1900's.

View from the ruins of the house where Haitian leaders meet to discuss the war to Haitian Independence in the late 1800’s, early 1900’s.

Saut-Mathurine Waterfall. Yes, it is really this blue!

Saut-Mathurine Waterfall. Yes, it is really this blue!

Saut-Mathurine Waterfall. Yes, it is really this blue!

Saut-Mathurine Waterfall. Yes, it is really this blue!

Nature's pool, created by the river. and yes it is also this blue!

Nature’s pool, created by the river. and yes it is also this blue!

View from my hotel room at Le Recul Hotel.

View from my hotel room at Le Recul Hotel.

The Botanical Garden of Les Cayes.

The Botanical Garden of Les Cayes.

The Botanical Garden of Les Cayes.

The Botanical Garden of Les Cayes.

The Botanical Garden of Les Cayes.

The Botanical Garden of Les Cayes.

 
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Haiti: Adventures in the Northern Department

As an avid traveler, I usually like to explore different countries in the region where I am. However, since I’ve been in Haiti I haven’t had the desire to leave the country. There’s something about Haiti that leaves you yearning for more adventure, craving for more sights, wanting to dip your toes in different waters with vibrant colors. Whether you go north or south of the country , you just want more.  So, excuse me if I haven’t been updating the blog as often as usual, I’ve just been too busy riding buses through the beautiful mountains, climbing to La Citadelle on a horse at 3000 ft, dipping myself in the clear waters that leave you feeling rejuvenated, eating freshly caught seafood and more. If you were in my position, you’d understand what it feels like to have your heart so stuck on truly discovery one country that it’s putting the nomad in you on hibernation mode.

Three weekends ago I’ve had the opportunity to travel to the north of Haiti for the first time in my life. My  trip to La Citadelle was long awaited.  La Citadelle, known as the “8th wonder of the world” is located in the town of Milot which is close to the famous town of Cap-Haitien in the north of Haiti. I remember the times when I could only dream of going to La Citadelle, the largest fortress to exist in the Americas, built by the Haitian people who put Napoleon Bonaparte and his French army to shame. I remember the years, in elementary school, when I studied about La Citadelle in the Haitian history books. I remember the times when, years later, I would see the coolest pictures and videos of foreigners enjoying the beautiful sights in my birth country and I would feel immense jealousy towards them. I remember the times when I begged my uncle’s wife to take me to her hometown of Cap-Haitien so I could visitLa Citadelle, the beautiful northern beaches, the Sans Souci Palace and she’d always reply “We’ll go soon.” But I couldn’t wait for “soon”. “Soon” was too far away and Mr “Right Now” was calling my name.

After 7 hours of driving through the mountains, being at the top of bigger mountains and overlooking other mountains (which to me was a crazy experience), I was grateful to have made it to Cap-Haitien. To get to Cap-Haitien from Port-au-Prince, you can either take a 25-minute plane ride or take the 7-hour bus ride (I used the Sans-souci tours bus) which costs about $17 USD one way. When I finally made it to the town of Cap-Haitien (or Okap in Creole) it was a dream come true. Seeing the cathedral which I have spent years admiring from google images, was a dream come true. It was a beautiful and looked as 17th century as it did in the photos. Seeing the Citadelle rendered me speechless. I had seen countless fortresses in Europe and I had never been as astonished as I was while visiting the Citadelle. Just the simple fact that every material that built the fortress was carried on human backs at 3000 ft on top of the mountain 200 years ago, just the simple fact that cow blood and sugar cane molasses were used to create the cement which still holds the fortress together, just these simple facts rendered me fond of the willingness of the Haitian people to remain a free country, to remain the first free black nation of the world.

Through this land of mountains there are so many sights to be seen, so many bodies of water that need to be dipped in, so many exoticness to be felt, that I often feel like I’m running out of time. The sights that I do see are meant to be captured with more than a camera, the waters in which I do dip are meant to be felt with more than the five senses. With this said, I will continue this post with nothing but pictures that will leave you speechless, because my words, as juicy as they can be, cannot suffice to explain the beauty and history I have witnessed in the north of Haiti.

The beautiful cathedral in Cap-Haitien

The beautiful cathedral in Cap-Haitien

On the way to the Citadelle, Half way through the mountain.

On the way to the Citadelle, Half way through the mountain.

Canons and canon balls in the Citadelle dating back to the very early 1800s.

Canons and canon balls in the Citadelle dating back to the very early 1800s.

At the top of the Citadelle.

At the top of the Citadelle.

View from the top of the Citadelle.

View from the top of the Citadelle.

Inside the Citadelle.

Inside the Citadelle.

A small church near the Sans-Souci Palace.

A small church near the Sans-Souci Palace.

The ruins of the Sans-Souci palace.

The ruins of the Sans-Souci palace.

Most the houses in Cap-Haitien are colonial style houses with balconies.

Most the houses in Cap-Haitien are colonial style houses with balconies.

A quick visit to enjoy the views of Labadie.

A quick visit to enjoy the views of Labadie.

Relaxation at Labadie

Relaxation at Labadie

Kids playing around.

Kids playing around at Labadie.

Fishermen seen from Cormier Plage.

Fishermen seen from Cormier Plage. Fresh seafood on deck!

Overlooking the ocean from the mountains.

Overlooking the ocean from the mountains.

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The Saut D’Eau Adventure

“It took my breath away.”

“He/She took my breath away.”

“Taking one’s breath away.”

There’s something about having your breath taken away. There’s something so astonishing, so marvelous, so beautifully beyond imaginations that it leaves you grasping for air because it took your breath away. There’s something that leaves you feeling numb and breathless. But what does that really mean? I remember the times when I would see a crush and say “he took my breath away”. I remember my friends would see a shirtless crush with a nicely-shaped abdominal region and say “it took my breath away.” However, this past weekend, I’ve realized that the “taking my breath away” I’ve all been using all my life has been a big fat lie as I experienced the first time a sight that rendered me breathless.

The trip to Saut D’eau lasted about 1.5 hours during which we drove on the roads in the mountains, overlooking several parts of Haiti, with a view reaching the ocean. I was in awe. I found myself constantly repeating:”Dang, this country is beautiful!” and when I wasn’t, my other friends in the car were. I had never seen anything this beautiful. And it wasn’t any type of beauty. It was a raw beauty that was untouched, unadjusted, completely the way nature created it. You saw mountains after mountains and rivers in between the mountains and lakes a few miles away from the mountains and the cow eating its herbs peacefully on the side of the road.

Road heading to Seau D'eau in the mountains

Road heading to Seau D’eau in the mountains

After seeing this beautiful sight for 1.5 hours, I wanted to say that my breath was taken away, but to be honest, it wasn’t…yet. It wasn’t until after I arrived in the Seau D’Eau area, paid my 50 Gourdes ($1.10) entrance fee to the waterfall that my breath started to get taken away. My friends and I got in our bathing suits and decided we would climb to the top of the waterfall. There were a few guys who graciously helped us make our way to the top of the waterfall for a small tip. Half way through the top, I paused and dropped myself to the ground just to feel the cold water rush through my sweaty skin. The pause ended and we continued our way. A few minutes later, we had finally made it to the top. I sat down to feel the pressure of the waterfall. I felt the water brush against my back and cool my skin and after a few minutes it felt like I had been transported to heaven. I laid down on the big rocks, while in observation mode, and took in the water with all five senses. Afterwards, I sat up, and with the water still rushing past my skin with all its strength, I became even more observant of the water, the people making their way to the top, the guy who lit up his candles to honor the ancestors with his chants. I sat motionless for about 15 minutes. Here I was in Haiti, sitting under a waterfall with nothing but gorgeous mountains right across from me. At this moment, my breath was literally taken away. I was breathlessly fascinated at the beauty I was witnessing. I was breathless. I could not breathe. I thought maybe I needed an asthma pump. My breath was taken away. At that same moment, I heard my friend say: “This is so beautiful that it takes your breath away. I literally can’t breathe.”

Seau D'Eau Waterfall

Seau D’Eau Waterfall in Haiti

Seau D'Eau Waterfall in Haiti

Seau D’Eau Waterfall in Haiti

A few seconds later, a man came to me and asked: “Is this your first time coming here?”. I replied  with a short “yes”, hoping he would leave me in my silent observation. “You’re Haitian, right?” he continued. “Yes” I replied. “So why is this your first time coming here? You look like you’re in your 20s and it’s a shame that this is your first time here.” As much as it hurt to hear those words, I was completely in agreement with him that indeed it was a shame. It was a shame that tourists and missionaries and foreigners who come to Haiti pretending they’re doing development work (but that’s another story) knew my birth country better than I did. It was a shame that they knew the wonders of Haiti better than I did. At the same time, I was proud to have made it to Seau d’Eau, on of the many wonders of Haiti that will take your breath away in every sense. I was proud to be experiencing the natural beauty of this majestic nation that is often oppressed by the media. I became pensive, and to myself I said: ” Dear ancestors, I promise that my kids won’t wait as long as I did to discover the beauty of Haiti.”

Seau D'eau in Haiti

Seau D’eau in Haiti

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Haiti: What the media doesn’t show you!

In my last post about safety in Haiti, I have talked about the negative perceptions that the world has about Haiti due to the media’s propaganda. However, I have met several foreigners who have fallen in love with Haiti to the point where they buy property and make the country their permanent homes. I have conversed with several foreigners and two of these conversations particularly stuck with me. One of the conversations was with an Irish guy who has been living in Haiti for 5 years. Upon asking him where he was from, he responded “I am from Ireland but I usually tell people I’m from Port-au-Prince. I feel like I identify more with the Haitian culture than I do with my own. I love it here. I don’t speak creole and my coworkers and I joke about it and they make fun of me but I would not want to be elsewhere.” He responded with so much passion in his voice that I was flabbergasted. The other conversation was with an American guy from Texas : “How’s the experience so far?” I asked him. He smiled and responded :”You can’t imagine how much I already love this place. What I’m seeing is nothing like what the media portrays. I have friends telling me that I should leave Haiti and go to the Dominican Republic and you know what I answer to them?” I looked at him with curiosity and said “What?” The tone of his voice got so aggressive, yet passionate as he responded “I tell them :F*** you and your Dominican Republic! You don’t know s*** about Haiti! Haiti is the only place where I want to be!” Once again I was flabbergasted and asked “So how long have you been here?” He grinned and responded enthusiastically: “I just got here today for the first time!”

Because of my encounters with people who don’t know anything about Haiti but have a bad perception of the country and because of my encounters with foreigners in Haiti who decided to discover the country and make it their permanent homes, in this post, I intend to speak mostly with images. Therefore, I bring you these images, taken by me, to show you the side of Haiti that the media doesn’t show you and doesn’t want you to know. I hope these images can awaken the curiosity in you if you are a visual person, the adventure in you if you are a travel vagabond, and lastly, nostalgia in you if you have some sort of Haitian origins or ties.

A day in the mountains

A day in the mountains in Haiti

Haiti's beaches. The water is so clear that you can see your toes!

Haiti’s beaches. The water is so clear that you can see your toes!

Colonial style beach house in Haiti.

Colonial style beach house in Haiti.

Jet skiing in Haiti.

Jet skiing in Haiti.

A beach house spotted.

A beach house spotted.

A gorgeous house spotted by the beach.

A gorgeous house spotted by the beach.

A backyard in Haiti.

A backyard in Haiti.

The hi

The highway next to the ocean in Haiti

Art in Haiti

Art in Haiti

Art in Haiti

Art in Haiti

Saint Peter's Church. Eglise Saint Pierre in Haiti.

Saint Peter’s Church.
Eglise Saint Pierre in Haiti.

A pathway in the mountains in Haiti

A pathway in the mountains in Haiti

Mall in Haiti

Mall in Haiti

Highway in Haiti next to "Trois Mains"

Port-au-Prince highway next to “Trois Mains”

Port-au-Prince highway.

Port-au-Prince highway next to the “Trois Mains”

Haitian food. Rice and beans and plantains!

Haitian food. Rice and beans and plantains!

Haitian breakfast!

Haitian breakfast!

A resort in Haiti

A resort in Haiti

Public transportation in Haiti aka tap-tap

Public transportation in Haiti aka tap-tap

Haiti's public transportation

Haiti’s public transportation

Seau d'Eau Waterfall

Seau d’Eau Waterfall

Lac Azuei

Lac Azuei

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Haiti: World Cup 2014: Brazil or Argentina

The World Cup is too great of an event in Haiti for me not to make a post about it. I remember growing up in Haiti, people would gather in living rooms or wherever there was a television to watch the World Cups. I remember the electricity company would sometimes give power just so people could watch the games.

Now when it comes to soccer, the Haitian population has always been divided into two teams : Brazil and Argentina. If you rooted for one of those teams, you remained loyal even through losses. If you were a Brazil fan, you always rooted against Argentina and vice versa. I remember my mother being a Brazil fan and my father being an Argentina fan, so games were always interesting in my house. But after my family moved to the US, World Cups had a different dynamic and no longer caused as much anxiety and noise. So for years, I have craved watching the World Cup the way I used to watch it as a child.

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Being back in Haiti, it has been a pleasure watching the world cup with the same childhood anticipation I used to have. When you drive around, you have the impression of being in an international community because there are flags of the different countries playing in the World Cup everywhere. Even if you are not into football, there are indications that important games are happening. You know Brazil or Argentina are playing when entire neighborhoods are screaming and dancing. You know one of these two teams are playing when traffic is smooth in the Port-au-Prince streets because most people are somewhere in front of a television. You know one of these two teams are playing because people leave work early to go home to watch the games, as work schedules are created around game schedules. Today, as I left work at the regular time I usually do, a few people said to me “So you’re leaving to go watch the game too? Tout moun nan football. You’re a Brazil fan!” I quickly responded as they laughed : “No way, I’m a Haiti fan all the way, like 100%!”

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But today was the day when many people cried. This day, July 8th 2014, marks the day where many Haitians lost money, houses and even wives because of the bets they made as they were so sure Brazil would win. I did not care much for the game until I heard someone in the streets screaming: “Dammit 4-0!” After the first 30 minutes of the game, many people rooting against Brazil took to the streets with German flags or Argentinian flags. The game became the topic of discussion everywhere and all the people wearing green and yellow looked tense. After the 5th goal, I thought about the African Cup match between Senegal vs Ivory Coast that I attended in Senegal when the Senegalese set the stadium on fire as they realized they were losing. I wondered if the Brazilians would do the same.

As Germany scored the 7th goal, more people gathered on the streets and you could hear the rara bands forming, celebrating the loss of Brazil which, to them, meant that Argentina had a bigger possibility of winning the Cup. And soon after, the clouds must have felt the loss of Brazil as the weather went from sunny to rainy, mourning the suicide mission in which Brazil just partook.

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Haiti: “Is it safe? Are you safe?”

“Be really careful!”

“Be safe!”

“Fais attention!”

“Is there even food? Bring food in your suitcase! Don’t starve over there!”

“Don’t go out! Stay inside! Only go out if necessary!”

“Pa al flannen nan lari a!”

“Be careful! Be very very careful!”

These words were echoing everywhere as soon as people found out I was heading to Haiti. I heard them so much that I felt smothered. At one point, before my trip, all these warnings stressed me so much that I started telling people to keep their fears to themselves. What bothered me the most was the fact that these warnings were coming from people who have never set foot in Haiti or from Haitians who have not been back to Haiti in decades. Throughout all these warnings, however, I realized how much I loved being the person I am because of the fact that I do not let the media or people influence my travel destinations.

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View from Furcy

 

Since I’ve arrived in Haiti, I have felt safer than I have in some of the other countries to which I have traveled. I have found myself surrounded by goodness: Humans are your best resources here as long as you’re capable of using good manners, such as saying ‘Bonjou’ (good morning) and ‘Mèsi’ (thank you). Manners will open the door to great roads in Haiti! You’re in the streets and you’re lost? Stop and ask a stranger who will point you in the right direction. You’re hungry? Stop and ask a stranger who will refer you to the best spot in the neighborhood. You’re thirsty? Knock on someone’s door and ask for water. When was the last time you were in a place where human kindness still existed and people took time out of their day to help you?

An event that surprised me was when I lost my wallet with Haitian and American money. When I finally realized I had lost my wallet, it was an hour later and immediately my first thought was: “That’s it. I don’t have any money left and I know for a fact I won’t see my wallet again”. I have lost my wallets a few times in the US and have never gotten it back so I immediately thought the same would happen in Haiti. But I was proven wrong as my wallet with all its contents was returned to me.

So am I just lucky or is the media exaggerating with the negative connotations associated with Haiti? 

What is it about the country that gives the media an incentive to talk about it negatively? I had to find answers and on my quest to do so I spoke to individuals who couldn’t help but to compare Haiti to other countries in regards to safety. Not to knock down our Caribbean neighbors, but Jamaica has one of the highest crime rates in the Caribbean, being in the top ten countries with the highest homicide rate in the world. But you don’t hear that on the news a lot! Haiti‘s crime rates are even half of what they are in the Dominican Republic which is next door! But no one ever questions safety issues as they book their Dominican vacations. Why is that? And should I mention the US? Sixty people (or more as the numbers keep rising) get shot in Chicago on Independence weekend but, let’s only talk about it for a day or two and then refocus the media on Haiti’s past and promote it as the current situation. After these observations, I felt sorry for the media and its propaganda. Most of all, I felt sorry for Haiti who has become like this promiscuous girl who can never shake off its reputation, this promiscuous girl whom everyone keeps reminding of its past, no matter how much positive progress it’s making.

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Another view from Furcy

 

Amongst all of this, I must say that Haiti is not for the weak-minded and it most certainly is not for those who want to set foot on the soil with the preconceived notions that they have gathered from the media, the internet or from other people who cannot even locate Haiti on a map. Haiti is not for the narrow-minded nor the person who is not open for an adventure. And so far, I’ve been having one of the greatest adventures of my life and I just keep falling in love with the country over and over again.

So, am I safe? Let’s just say I’ve been going out as I please, whether my destination is a restaurant or a club or whether I’m just walking and visiting different neighborhoods. I even once found myself walking back home from the club at 4 AM with two other friends. And guess what? I’m well and alive!

 

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Haiti: I fell in love

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Statue of Jean-Jacques Dessalines in Champs-de-Mars, Port-au-Prince

 

“Why do you seem so aloof”? asked my colleague.

I was deep in my thoughts. Here I was, sitting at an exclusive party with important political figures, and yet, my mind was transported elsewhere. With a view overlooking the Port-au-Prince skyline, I was in awe. My mind and imagination were at work and I was completely oblivious to everything else as I sat alone with a glass of wine.

As I looked over Port-au-Prince in all its majesty, I saw the ancestors. I thought about my trip to Gorée Island in Senegal. I pictured the slaves being embarked on huge ships. I saw the triangular trade. I pictured these same slave ships at the Port-au-Prince harbor and I saw the slaves being sold off. I saw the sugar cane plantations which made Haiti the wealthiest country in the Caribbean at the time. I saw these same sugar cane plantations and hard working slaves that are the foundations of the wealth of countries like Spain and France. I fast forwarded to the Haitian revolution. I saw slaves fighting for the one thing their heart desired the most. I pictured them chanting “Grenadiers à l’assaut! Sa ki mouri zafè a yo. nanpwen manman, nanpwen papa. Sa ki mouri zafè a yo.” I saw descendants of Africa with their machetes in hand, ready to die for their Ayiti Cherie and for the freedom of their offsprings.

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View from Boutiliers, overlooking Port-au-Prince.

 

“You still look like you’re not here with us! What are you doing?” asked my colleague again. “Just thinking.” I replied. “What are you thinking about?” he continued. I sighed and responded as random words found their way out of my mouth and I tried to let them make sense: “I’m here. You know? Like, I’m here! It’s surreal! I don’t know if you understand but I’m here!” He gave me a look as if to say “you’re so weird”. I smiled and as he walked away, I regained my train of thought.

I saw the Bois Caïman ceremony. I smelled the freedom. I smelled the victory. It was because of the ancestors that I was here. It was because of their hard work and sacrifice that I could stand in this hotel, with a magnificent view of the city with a nice breeze brushing past my skin. It was because of the blood they versed that Haiti became the first Black nation in the Western Hemisphere. My thoughts gave me goosebumps. And at that exact moment, I realized that I was in love. And it was not any kind of love, but it was a love you could not find elsewhere. I was in love. And I was not in love with a person. I was love with Haiti.  And I found myself thinking ” I’ll know I truly love someone when I find myself loving them as much as I love this country. I’ll know I really love them when I love them as much as I love Haiti.”

My colleague came back and laughed as he uttered these words : “Maybe we should move you out of your hotel and put you in this one since you love this view so much.” I nodded in agreement. And at that moment, the DJ played “Papa Dessalines” as if he had visualized my thoughts and knew how much I was appreciating the ancestors’ hard work.

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Champs-de-Mars, Port-au-Prince

 

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Haiti Chérie: The Return

 

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After traveling to sixteen countries in the last three years, there was one place to which I needed to return. Having been away for so long, I felt I was becoming disconnected. I needed to see, feel, touch. I desired to observe with all five senses. I needed to hug and kiss the ground. I needed to smell the breeze as it caresses my skin under a hot sun. I needed to experience.

The place to which I needed to return so badly is the country that needs me as much as I need it. It’s the one place that, no matter what happens, I will always call “home”. After living in some of the countries (France and Senegal) that made up the culture of Haiti, I spent months and years yearning to go “home”. I spent the last four years trying to find a way to get to my “lakay”. I just had to find a way to go back. But, not just any way. I couldn’t go empty-handed: I had to have a way to contribute to the country, I had to have a cause.

And so came the opportunity of a lifetime, an opportunity I have spent months and years researching : a fellowship. The moment I laid eyes on this fellowship, my heart precipitated and I knew I couldn’t let this opportunity pass by. This was my chance! This was it! And after applications and rounds of interviews with high ranking officials, I was notified that I was one of the six fellows chosen to go to Haiti and intern with the government. It was a dream come true: I was returning home and I was not going empty handed. I was going to learn but also use my knowledge to help my homeland. It had been seven years since I last returned to Haiti, seven long years since I had seen family and friends.

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Upon returning to the US from living in France, I got to spend a few weeks at my home in NYC. During that time, I became more aware of everything “Haitian”. I am not sure that I was so aware because I had not been around that many Haitians during the 8 months spent in Paris (though Haitians are everywhere in Paris) or because I was heading to Haiti soon. I became aware of the Creole being spoken around me, the Haitian mangoes being sold at the supermarket, the many Haitian churches of the neighborhood. At one point I even thought to myself “it’s like I’m already there”. And before I knew it, I was on a plane, heading to the homeland.

There’s something you find on flights heading to Haiti that you don’t find anywhere else. In all the flights I’ve taken so far in my life, I’ve yet to see anything like this anywhere else. You know that moment when the first wheel of the plane hits the ground? That moment where your heart precipitates? Well, as soon as that wheel hits the Port-au-Prince airport runway, the plane turns into a church. The loud clapping starts and all you hear is “Mèsi Bondye! Gloire à toi Seigneur! Alélouya! Mèsi Jezi” (Thank you Lord! Glory to God! Hallelujah! Thank you Jesus!) Everyone was saying this at one point and it lasted for about 5 minutes. At this moment, I felt it. I knew I was home. This felt surreal. The tears rolled down and I had the biggest smile on my face as the chants to God continued. “When was the last time you visited Haiti?” Asked the man who sat next to me throughout the flight. “Seven years ago” I responded, as the tears kept rolling. “I’m sure everything has changed.” I continued. He smiled. We proceeded to get off the plane and I was sort of disappointed when I realized that we no longer get off the plane on the runway and walk to the airport. I was disappointed because I really wanted the Haitian air and sun to hit my face as soon as I stepped foot outside the plane. But as the plane door opened to the tunnels that led to the interior of the airport and I heard and saw the Haitian band playing some “twoubadou” inside the airport to welcome passengers, the disappointment wore off. The airport had been transformed beautifully since the last time I was hear. I was happy about the great work that was done. I was more than happy about being back to my lakay. I proceeded to clearing customs, got my suitcases and walked to the exit door where I sat down waiting to be picked up.

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